The Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park is one of the best places in the world to go whale watching, and it’s one of a number of highlights in the Côte-Nord region of Quebec.
The protected waterway is home to 13 species of whales, including blue, minke, fin, and humpback whales, as well as dolphins and seals. From May to October the region has numerous species that visit during mating season, and throughout the year, Beluga whales call the area home.
On a whale watching trip through the area I was fortunate to see two blue whales breaching, slapping their fins in the water, and one even did a barrel roll out of the water. It was a spectacular sight, and it’s worth the trip if you’ve never seen one of these majestic animals.
Around the area, you can hike, explore beaches, history, and culture, and most importantly, learn about the whales and efforts to study their habits, and protect them.
It’s a beautiful area to explore, and it’s a perfect place to stop if you plan a full road trip and explore across the river through the Gaspésie region to the east.
Read on to learn more about planning a whale watching excursion in Saguenay–St. Lawrence, including details about whale watching, getting there, nearby highlights, and where to stay.
The whale watching excursion
From Tadoussac to Les Escoumins, which is a short drive, there are a number of whale watching companies that will take you out to see the whales, generally for a 2 hour trip.
What’s important to note, no matter which company you choose, is that there is no way to guarantee that you will definitely see a whale. However, during the season, there are so many whales in the area, it is very common to see at least one whale on an excursion.
For anyone who is unable to go out in a boat, or if you want to sit and try and see some whales and marine life, it’s also possible to spot whales from the shore at the Marine Environment Discovery Centre in Les Escoumins (41 rue des Pilotes, Les Escoumins), among a few other Parks Canada sites.
When I went on my whale watching trip, our boat pilot had an update on his radio and asked if we wanted to try and see a few smaller whales closer to shore, or travel further out in the zodiac and look for larger whales. Our boat decided to go try and see larger whales and we did see two blue whales, which was completely amazing. They leapt–also called breaching–slapped their fins on the water, swam nearby, and put on what I can only call a stunning show.
For the adventurous, you can pick from a number of operators, but I was excited to go out with Croisières Essipit in Les Bergeronnes.
The tour company is a short 20 minute drive from either the les Escoumins ferry, or the Tadoussac ferry, depending on which way you’re arriving from, and they offer an excellent program.
When you arrive, a little before your start time you’ll get waterproof pants and a orange, flotation jacket to put on, and you will have a quick briefing about the experience. The whale watching trip is two hours long, including 45 minutes to go out to the deeper waters in a zodiac, 30 minutes to watch for whales, and then 45 minutes back to the wharf.
Seeing the whales is exciting, but I have to admit that even just the zodiac boat ride out to the whales was also a lot of fun. With waves it can be bumpy, but it’s a fast, fun ride.
Since the water in the river is quite cold, it’s important to come prepared. Even in the peak of summer it can be very cool on the water, so they recommend bringing a toque, gloves, and dressing in slightly warmer clothes or layers. That said, the pants and jacket that they provide you are quite warm, so they will help a lot. And on my visit, Croisières Essipit provided basic gloves.
You can bring a camera or phone with you on the tour, but for any zodiac tours, which are smaller boats, you will get splashed, so it’s wise to make sure you can put any device away underneath your jacket while the boat is moving.
Once you’re in position to see the whales, you can take photos or use binoculars. Just keep in mind that the boat will still be moving with waves and wind, but it’s usually fine to stand on the boat to get a better view. Your guide will give you any specific instructions to enjoy the experience and stay safe, so just listen to anything they have to tell you.
Since some of the larger whales are known to researchers working here, Croisières Essipit even had an expert on our boat who told us about their habits, and some of their names, since they can identify them by the markings on their tails. It was a truly amazing experience and while this may not be common, the whales breached eight times while our boat was in the water, and we were close enough to see them easily.
Prices vary but at the time of my trip, the price for an adult was between $60 and $75, depending on the boat size. Generally the tours are offered from early June to the end of September or the first week of October.
Getting there
This is a spectacular destination to explore on a road trip, and it’s perfect for a three to four day trip, or for a whole week, depending on the route you take.
From Montreal, in the southwest, it’s a six hour drive to Les Escoumins, including a free and short ferry ride to get to Tadoussac. It’s just three hours to drive from Quebec City.
From the east, you can get to the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park from Edmundston, New Brunswick in about four hours, or from Fredericton in about six hours. For this route, you can cross the river at Trois-Pistoles to Les Escoumins. There is a fee for this ferry, and I would recommend arriving early and buying your ticket in advance.
While you can certainly drive to the area and stay for one or two nights, I had an amazing road trip driving from Bonaventure, Quebec, around the Gaspésie region, along the coast, and ending in Tadoussac. This is one of the most beautiful drives, with a lot of hiking, biking, and outdoor activities, including a number of highlights in Percé, like Île-Bonaventure-et-du-Rocher-Percé park.
For this longer road trip, consider stopping at Forillon National Park, and the larger town of Matane. You can find numerous motels, inns, B&Bs, hotels, and camping stops along this stunning coastal drive. I would suggest booking 4-8 weeks in advance to get the best accommodations, especially for summer trips.
Local highlights
Tadoussac is the largest community close to Les Escoumins and the other whale watching companies around Saguenay-St. Lawrence. In town you can find bars, restaurants, and cafes.
To learn more about the whales in the region, and especially the beluga whales, make sure to stop at the Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre. The centre is open from mid-May to mid-October, and offers a lot of information, with some great displays, an immersive presentation, and a short movie.
Around town you can hike along the coastline to Islet Point, stop at Microbrasserie Tadoussac for excellent beer, grab a coffee at Café Bohème or Café l’Abri Côtier, and have a bite to eat at Bistro de la Baie or Chez Mathilde.
Mont Adéla-Lessard is a hiking area to the west of town, with beautiful views overlooking the Saguenay river. A 15 minute drive from Tadoussac is also Sacré-Coeur, another smaller town with a couple of restaurants and a hotel.
Where to stay
The largest hotel in the area is the historic Hôtel Tadoussac, an upscale property with a pool, restaurant, and a remarkable view over the harbour.
Close to Les Escoumins, you can also stay at Auberge La Rosepierre, a quaint B&B that offers some of the best food in the area, or try Restaurant du Boisé around the corner.
In Les Escoumins there’s also Condo-Hôtels Natakam, a small apartment-style property with comfortable rooms that can sleep up to six people.
Between Les Escoumins and Tadoussac you will find a number of motels, B&Bs, and inns. Use the map below to search for some of these properties, or view them here.
More information
If you have any questions, leave a comment below and I’ll be happy to get back to you!
To learn more and plan your whale watching trip to the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park, visit Côte-Nord tourism, the Tadoussac tourism website, and Quebec Maritime.
For details on the ferry service between Trois-Pistoles/Les Escoumins visit CNB Ferry.
All photos by W. Andrew Powell/The GATE.
